Horse-Questions

How Can I Prevent Laminitis?

2011-10-26T05:11:00.000-07:00

It fills any pony owner with dread. But it is not a problem that is prevalent in just overweight ponies; there are a number of causes that with careful management can reduce the risk of laminitis.

Laminitis is inflammation of the laminae, which attaches the hoof to the pedal bone, once this is damaged the pedal bone can drop and, or rotate. This can be incredibly painful and causes a lot of distress to the horse.

Be aware of the signs of laminitis, as the likelihood is that the clinical symptoms will be seen when the laminitis has really taken hold.

• Poor performance, reluctance to move forward or not wanting to jump

• Fatty distension of the crest

• Weight gain

• Shortening of stride when trotted on hard ground

• Frequent weight swapping from one foot to the other

• Strong, rapid digital pulse

• Laminitic stance-weight in its heels

• Wants to lie down or take weight off its feet.

Chronic cases:

• Lameness, particularly on hard ground

• Footsore, red bruising when feet are trimmed

• Pus in foot

• Odd shaped feet, including rings on the hoof wall, long toes, dropped soles and wide white lines and flat feet.

Laminitis can be caused by a number of reasons:

• High carbohydrate diet: Causing rapid fermentation in the hind gut.

• Colic stress

• Retained placenta- toxaemia

• Mechanical overload: concussion through hard, fast work on hard surfaces (road founder)

• Hormonal problems: (good doers) hyperthyroid, abnormal peripheral cortisol enzyme system or even when some horses come into season it can trigger laminitis attacks.

What to do when laminitis is diagnosed:

• Vet: they will examine the horse and provide adequate drugs (possibly Bute or ACP) to help relive any pain or discomfort.

• Remove the horse form the source of the problem, either feed or field.

• Keep the horse comfortable with a deep bed (preferably shavings) to encourage lying down.

▪ Get in contact with the farrier to liaise with the vet to sort shoeing, they will probably need x-rays in order to give maximum frog support.

• Do not feed the horse until the vet has been.

Laminitis is a disease that will require the horse owner to monitor the horse especially during times when an attack of laminitis is likely to occur.

How do I get my horse gleaming before a show?

2011-03-29T01:18:00.000-07:00

Keeping horses clean is never easy, but when there is a show around the corner, this is the time your horse will decide being dirty is a lot of fun.

The base for any horse looking good is a healthy happy horse, so a good lifestyle and routine for your horse will make him look and feel fantastic. Any scurfy, dull coat is a sign that something needs to be addressed. If your horse is looking in poor condition it could be a good idea to get the vet out to give him a thorough check over to make sure that medically he is OK. Trying a nutritionist for advice will give you confidence that your horse is getting everything he needs and even give you a few tip on what feeds can give him that show-ring glow.

Getting him ready to show

Bathing

Get a specialist horse shampoo for this job, as it will reduce the risk of making him sensitive to the chemicals in non-horse shampoos and washing liquids. This will strip the natural grease and protective layer off his hair, so should not be done too often or on horses that regularly live out. If you are going to bath him do it a day or two before hand as this will give the coat time to build up natural oils that will give him a nice shine. Do not apply too much shampoo and rinse his coat thoroughly so that there are no bubbles left in at all. When you rinse his coat try adding vinegar, baby oil or lemon juice to add that extra shine and minimise the drying effect of the shampoo.

Manes and tails

Using silicone based conditioners will seal the hair and give it that extra shine. Do not put any conditioner on the area where the saddle sits or it will be very slippy. Don't use conditioner on a mane that needs plaiting up, or it will be very very difficult to do!

Trim the tail to just below the hocks using a sharp pair of scissors to give it that neat finish.

Cut a small bridle path behind his ears through his mane to make the bridle sit neater and part the forelock and mane. Plait using a tread if possible as it will create a neat finish and no rubber bands can be seen.

Grooming

Elbow grease! Get out your grooming kit and a good thorough groom will remove dust, grease and spread the sebum his coat naturally produces evenly around the coat and skin to make him gleam. It will keep his rugs clean as well as a good grooming giving him a nice massage. Massaging whilst you brush is a great way to help clear the lymph glands and promote muscle tone and blood supply.

Hooves

Only use a hoof oil before you go into the ring. Studies have shown that continued and frequent use of hoof oils will dry out the hoof and make it crumbly/brittle. So instead, wash the hooves off and use a good moisturising hoof gel or cream. Alternatively, using too much water on the hoof will make them too soft as it will absorb the moisture, so it is important to keep a good balance. For a better idea of your horse's hoof condition have a word with your farrier as he will give you a more detailed idea on what is good to use and what's not.

Getting Your Horse To Stand Still At The Mounting Block

2011-02-08T07:42:00.000-08:00

My new horse refuses to stand still at the mounting block. In every other way he is a dream to handle and good to ride. The mounting block is the only issue as he is 16.2 will not stand still long enough for me to get on. How can I solve this problem?

It is possible that your new horse has had a negative experience at some point. It is unfortunate as you don’t know how long he has reacted like this; your job first and foremost is to get everything checked. This means teeth, back and tack checks to rule out any pain and discomfort.

It is possible that he could be cold backed. This could because of muscular tension and pain in the back or even gastric ulcers. The best way to find out is to get a vet to check him over. If gastric ulcers are suspected, then it can be confirmed with an endoscopic check of the stomach. An adjustment to his diet and routine can aid the treatment of ulcers.

Check that you aren’t digging him with your boot as you get on, this will cause a reaction to discomfort experienced and he will associate this with being mounted. If he is inattentive and not willing to listen , try lunging him for 10 minutes to get him listening and reactive to your voice, this will benefit him in the long run to enjoy the praise and comfort of your voice.

If it is a habit or a learned response to standing at the mounting block, then he will, likely, need re-educating.

You will need PATIENCE!!

Start out when you are grooming him. Stand on a small block and brush him, talking to him and making him feel at ease with you being raised above normal height. Wear appropriate safety gear such as hat and sensible footwear and make sure he is tied (with a haynet to keep him occupied and not worried).

Take him in the arena tacked up as though you were going to ride and start by juts walking him to the mounting block and just walk past it. When he starts to relax ask him to stand by it, once he stands lead him away and praise him gently.

Once he gets used to being led to the mounting block and stood alongside walk to it, you should step onto the block, step off again and lead him past. Once he is happy to stand with you standing on the block, gradually introduce leaning over him gently. Both feet should remain on the block and you should lean your arm over him. Keep talking to him and praise him every time he is good. If he is naughty go back a few steps and start again, getting him settled.

Eventually start getting on him from the mounting block. Make sure you have settled him down and you should also remain positive and relaxed. If he rushed when you try to mount and you are in the position to dismount, do so. Start again praise, patience and positive attitude.

Your aim is for him to stand whilst you get on and then once you have gotten on. This has to be a positive experience as you say it is his only quirk. You will need to be prepared for this to take time and not just happen overnight. But once he realizes what you want him to do and he is happy about it, your life will be made a lot easier.

Mares - Why are they moody?

2011-01-20T04:57:00.000-08:00

Mares come into season during the summer months and this is the time when they are covered by a stallion and put in foal for next year. It is a cyclic process with one cycle lasting 21 days.

Oestrus- the mare is actually “in season” and will accept the stallion (6 days)

Dioestrus- the mare does not accept the stallion as progesterone released into the mares system counter-acts the oestrogen, taking the mare “out of season”. (15 days)

Anoestrus- the time when the mare is sexually inactive (during winter months)(6 days)

During the time of oestrus horse owners find the mare becomes less respectful of their human owners and can be temperamental or moody. This is all due to the hormonal changes that naturally occur in the horse's body. It can make them less tolerant and owners often find that mares can be more argumentative and harder to tack up, especially doing the girth. This is because the mare may be sore or more tender around her girth area and loins.

How can you make summer a bit more bearable for you and your mare?

Regumate Equine is a hormonal treatment for mares. It may be used to suppress and prevent the signs of oestrus in mares, which may be particularly useful early in the breeding season. It is also used strategically as part of a breeding program to control the cycle of breeding mares, allowing synchronisation of oestrus and mating or can prevent the mare coming into season when a competition is due. It is a progesterone analogue making the mare go into dioestrus blocking the release of gonadotrophin releasing hormone (GnRH), but not the production. This means that it will prevent the mare coming into season until the course of Regumate has stopped, then oestrus will occur. It is by vet prescription only but must be handled carefully as even getting Regumate on the skin is harmful to women, in particular pregnant women.

A marble implant done by a qualified vet will stop the mare coming into season as it “tricks” the mare into thinking that she is pregnant an so preventing hormone release. It is implanted at the start of the breeding season and is usually removed around October. The only problem with this is that some mares react badly to having a foreign object being implanted and are prone to uterine infections.

Herbal remedies have been suggested to help with moody mares, such as Naff's “Oestress” or Global Herbs' “Frisky Mare”. They claim the natural ingredients ease the problems that occur during oestrus.

Understanding why the horse gets “moody” in summer makes it easier to deal with. It is important to know how to deal with mares when they become aggressive or agitated during this time, but it is important to be sympathetic as they are acting the way nature intended.

How to keep weight on your Veteran horse over winter

2010-11-25T09:17:00.000-08:00

Coming into winter, there are a few horses that need a bit of nutritional support. Veteran horses struggle to keep weight on for a number of reasons:

• Poor dentition

• Cushing's disease

• Laminitis

Firstly get his teeth checked

As horses get older their teeth wear and can become loose. Any issues with the horse struggling to eat can be seen if the horse begins to quid, starts to loose weight quite dramatically or leaves a large amount of its feed..

Struggling to chew food can mean that horses will poorly digest feed and a horse needs to have a regular fibre intake of fibre through grazing to keep his digestive system working. If he doesn't get enough fibre, he will likely develop an impaction colic.

Soaking feed will soften the fibre based feeds for the horse to chew. If the horse struggles with long hay fibre then try using a short chopped fibre based feed that can be soaked and fed in a bucket.

Make feeds easier to eat for horses with poor dental condition by soaking it to make it into a gruel-like consistency.

Nutrition

Horses that are prone to weight loss over winter due to lacking nutritional requirements rather than because there are veterinary issues can supplement their horses diet by using the correct feed.

Fibre should be the basis of any horse's diet. He should be eating regularly and mimicking natural grazing habits to keep his digestive system going. They should have at least 1.5% of its body weight as fibre.

Slow release energy with the condition can be found by adding oils to his diet instead of sugars (which are especially bad for lamanitic horses and ponies). It should be a pure oil such as sunflower or corn. Oils contain the essential fatty acids horses need to get from their diet. Oils have three times the amount of calories as carbohydrate and as it is easily digested and absorbed it is ideal for aiding weight gain.

Vitamins and minerals can be supplemented using a general purpose supplement. This will make up for any vitamins and minerals that are lacking in the grass at that time of year.

Making sure he doesn't get too much starch and sugar will ensure that his glycemic index stays low and holds off insulin resistance, it will also make him more handleable if exercising is difficult during harsher weather.

Keeping Cosy

Rugging up your horse when it is cold will reduce the amount of energy needed to keep him warm. He should not be over rugged as this is just as bad as him being too cold. Layering thinner rugs will also ease weight off his spine that a heavyweight rug would put on.

Don't presume that an older horse will suddenly drop weight as soon as winter hits. Keep an eye on him with regular condition scoring and even use a weigh tape to gauge any weight loss or gain

My cob is a nightmare to lead! How can I stop him pulling away from me when he is in a headcollar?

2010-11-04T03:17:00.000-07:00

Cobs have thick set, strong necks and I bet that he has a strong set of shoulders as well. This strength is fantastic, but needs channelling in the right way as when he uses his strength against you, like you say he does when he is in a headcollar, it can become dangerous. If your horse wants to go somewhere, the likelihood is that he is going to go there and you will struggle to maintain control.

So what can you do?...

Different tack and equipment is not a sure fire quick fix or cure. To start with the new gadgets will seem like they have done what you wanted, but it is the combination of tack and training. You need to lay the ground work for good communication between you and your horse.

Using a rope halter and long rope is a good way to start the training. It should have no moving parts and should fit comfortably on the horse. These rope halters have small pressure points on the horses face that are there to make him listen rather than allow him to fix against you hand run forwards. If you feel more confident put a bridle underneath the introduce the halter. Gradually wean it off and stick with the halter and long rope.

Start by keeping his attention when you lead him. Turn his head towards you as a flexion, don't pull or tug as you will be trying to pull around a horse that is a lot stronger and wont appreciate being yanked about. Put your elbow to his shoulder and should he try and and head off, change direction.

Keep him interested doing some halts and make sure when he is good he gets lots of praise. This could be vocal and pats (try not to rely on tit-bits as he'll soon become a pocket-raider)

Once he gets the hang of it he will become softer on the rope and more yielding he will become in his neck.

Make sure you practice these techniques in an enclosed space so that should he get loose, you can catch him again and repeat the training until he gets it.

Good luck!

I'm looking for a way to transport my horse what are the legalities in terms of license?

2010-10-18T02:17:00.000-07:00

Pre-1997 license

· Can drive a fix-axle vehicle fully laden (horse, fuel, tack, hay, water, passengers etc.) weighing up to 7.5tonnes.

· Can pull a trailer as long as the laden weight of vehicle and trailer do not exceed 8.2 tonnes.

· Require an additional test to drive HGV vehicles.

After 1997

· Can drive a fixed-axle vehicle fully laden (horse, tack, fuel, hay, water, passengers etc.) weighing up to 3.5tonnes from the age of 17.

· A category C test must be taken in order to drive anything 3.5tonnes -7.5tonnes and must be over the age of 21 to take this test.

· A driver can tow up to a 750KG laden trailer as long as the overall vehicle/trailer combination doesn't exceed 3.5tonnes.

· Need to take an extra test (B+E) in order to tow a larger trailer or where the overall vehicle/trailer combination exceeds 3.5tonnes. With this B+E license, a trailer and car fully laden can then be pulled as long as it does not exceed 8.25tonnes. You must be over the age of 21 to take this test.

· HGV’s need an additional test and drivers must be over 21 years of age.

Vehicle regulations

For towing a horse and trailer

The standard category for a 4x4 and 2 horse trailer would fall in the B+E category. This means the vehicle would have a laden weight of no more than 3.5tonnes. The laden trailer must weigh no more than the vehicle towing. For example the laden weight (maximal authorized mass-or MAM) for an Ifor Williams HB506 is 1.6tonnes. This means the trailer weight and horse/s hay etc in the trailer must not exceed this mass. The vehicle towing should, therefore have a greater weight than the laden trailer.

Top Tips for Towing Information

Engine size and vehicle mass is vital for towing, speak to your car dealership for individual vehicle specifications and towing capacity.

Check your trailer weight (unladen weight) and your horse’s weight (using a public DoT weigh bridge) the combined weight must not exceed 3.5tonne (on standard license) or the gross weight of the trailer (Manufacturers’ will have the gross weight for each make of trailer) or the mass of the weight of the car.

If you unsure take your vehicle, trailer and horse with everything included for a show day (tack, full tank of fuel, water, passengers etc.) to a public weigh bridge. If any weights are in excess of rules and regulation and you are pulled by VOSA you will not be able to continue your journey. Remember these rules and regulations are designed to keep you and everyone else safe.

How do I tell if my horse is under the weather?

2010-10-07T05:19:00.000-07:00

Being able to tell when your horse is feeling under the weather can make all the difference in treating their condition. Horses have vitals that can be checked on a regular basis to make sure there is nothing a miss or wrong with them. They are the same for all horses with only minor deviances for older horses and foals.. It is important for the horse owner to know when it a vet needs to be called. There is a good check-list to use to make sure everything is covered.

Temperament- A healthy horse should be interested and alert in its surroundings. They should respond to stimuli and any change in temperament and the horse's individual behaviour could be an indicator of ill health.

Condition- The horse should be of a good weight, not underweight or overweight. If there is a rapid weight loss or gain there could be an underlying medical cause that could cause some problems for the horses health. The horse should have a sleek, shiny and glossy coat and free of scurf or being dull/staring.

Nostrils and breathing- Nostrils should be clean and clear of excess mucus. Breathing should be easy and steady at around 15 inhalations per minute during resting. Excessive mucus, heavy/ laboured breathing or noisy breathing should be a cause for concern.

Eyes-They should be clean, bright and alert. Any unusual discharge or glazed look should be addressed immediately.

Appetite- The horse should have a healthy appetite. Because horses are grazers a significant loss of appetite can be dangerous to the horse's health. A dental problem could be a reason for a horse losing its appetite. This can be seen when horses quid (losing food out of its mouth as it chews).

Mucous membranes- These should be pink and healthy. Pale or white mucous membranes are an indicator of shock or anaemia. Capillary refill time of 1-2 seconds is considered normal.

Hydration-By pinching the horse's skin it is possible to tell if the horse is hydrated as if it takes longer than a second for the skin to return to normal the horse is usually dehydrated.

Urinating- The urine should be wheat coloured, not cloudy or containing blood.

Faeces- should be firm and not loose or containing undigested feed or worms. Nor should it be excessively runny as the horse can dehydrate.

Pulse- The horse's pulse should be around 36-42 beats per minute.

Temperature- the horse has a normal body temperature of 38 degrees C. Any deviation from this is very dangerous and strong indicator that there is a problem.

Horse owners that are regularly in contact with their horses usually spot a problem early as they instinctively can tell when there is something strange. If there is immediate concern for the horse a vet should be contacted immediately.

Asking for canter! One instructor says inside leg on the girth outside leg behind the girth but the other says outside leg only...which is correct?

2010-09-27T02:13:00.000-07:00

The inside leg is used for impulsion and asking the horse to go forwards and that includes upward transitions and canter strike off. The outside leg is used to guide the hind quarters and ideally should be positioned just behind the girth during a bend or turn. Therefore, to answer your question the inside leg should be on the girth and the outside leg should be just behind the girth to help the horse with setting up the bend needed for the correct strike off.

The idea to have both legs there for the horse is to stop the horse becoming crooked. Reliance on just the outside leg will cause the horse to swing its quarters and lose straightness. This becomes more apparent later on during sequence changes as the horse will “swing” in the change of leg.

How do I keep weight on my veteran horse over winter?

2010-09-20T04:24:00.000-07:00

Coming into winter, there are a few horses that need a bit of nutritional support. Veteran horses struggle to keep weight on for a number of reasons:
• Poor dentition
• Cushing's disease
• Laminitis
A general health check from a vet will make sure he is 100% healthy going into winter.

Firstly get his teeth checked

As horses get older their teeth wear and can become loose. Any issues with the horse struggling to eat can be seen if the horse begins to quid, starts to loose weight quite dramatically or leaves a large amount of its feed..

Struggling to chew food can mean that horses will poorly digest feed and a horse needs to have a regular intake of fibre through grazing to keep his digestive system working. If he doesn't get enough, he will likely develop an impaction colic.

Soaking feed will soften the fibre based feeds for the horse to chew. If the horse struggles with long hay then try using a short chopped fibre based feed that can be soaked and fed in a bucket.

Make feeds easier to eat for horses with poor dental condition by soaking it to make it into a gruel-like consistency.

Nutrition

Horses that are prone to weight loss over winter due to lacking nutritional requirements rather than because there are veterinary issues can supplement their horses diet by using the correct feed.

Fibre should be the basis of any horse's diet. He should be eating regularly and mimicking natural grazing habits to keep his digestive system going. They should have at least 1.5% of its body weight as fibre.

Slow release energy with the condition can be found by adding oils to his diet instead of sugars (which are especially bad for lamanitic horses and ponies). It should be a pure oil such as sunflower or corn. Oils contain the essential fatty acids horses need to get from their diet. Oils have three times the amount of calories as carbohydrate and as it is easily digested and absorbed it is ideal for aiding weight gain.

Vitamins and minerals can be supplemented using a general purpose supplement. This will make up for any vitamins and minerals that are lacking in the grass at that time of year.

Making sure he doesn't get too much starch and sugar will ensure that his glycemic index stays low and holds off insulin resistance, it will also make him more handleable if exercising is difficult during harsher weather.

Keeping Cosy

Rugging up your horse when it is cold will reduce the amount of energy needed to keep him warm. He should not be over rugged as this is just as bad as him being too cold. Layering thinner rugs will also ease weight off his spine that a heavyweight rug would put on.

Don't presume that an older horse will suddenly drop weight as soon as winter hits. Keep an eye on him with regular condition scoring and even use a weigh tape to gauge any weight loss or gain.

What is Tetanus?

2010-09-13T00:45:00.000-07:00

Diagnosis

Tetanus is an acute and often fatal disease caused by the bacteria found in soil. It is caused by the Clostridium tetani bacteria and the infection commonly occurs after an injury, but can also develop after a surgical operation. The toxin tetanospasmin affects the central nervous system.
The earliest symptom of tetanus is extreme sensitivity. Within 10 to 14 days following injury, horses become increasingly nervous. Some seem unwilling to be handled and may respond with aggression. Protrusion of the third eyelid and stiff gait are the most common clinical signs. Spasms of the masseter muscles occur early in the disease which results in "lockjaw". Spontaneous convulsions can occur and death results from respiratory compromise.
The toxin travels up the nerve trunks, as well as fixing directly on nerve cells. The spinal cord is the primary target organ, with chromatolysis of the motor neurons and inhibition inhibition of antagonists accounting for the spasm and rigidity that characterize the disease. Toxin fixation to central nervous system neurons may lead to seizures; involvement of the sympathetic nervous system may evoke vascular irregularities. This shows how damaging it can be to the cells of the central nervous system.

Treatment
The toxin absorption can be prevented by neutralizing the circulating toxin, aggressive wound levage, control of muscular spasm and continued nursing. The administration of the tetanus antitoxin cannot cross the blood-brain barrier or penetrate the nervous tissue to combine with the toxin already present in the nervous system. High doses of penicillin should be given for a minimum of ten days. Hyperexcitability, muscle spasms and convulsions may be managed by use of tranquilizers, sedatives or general anaesthesia.

What is Equine Recurrent Uveitis (Moon Blindness)?

2010-09-10T00:49:00.000-07:00

This disease if fairly uncommon in horses and it is characterised by episodes of acute pain and inflammation in one, or usually both eyes. Signs that an eye is in distress include redness, swelling, pus, pupil constriction in the dark, cloudiness, squinting, and photophobia. The interval between these attacks can be as short as a few weeks- hence the old name periodic ophthalmia- or as long as years.

Diagnosis

When the eye is examined, the signs of the disease are, In some eyes you can notice a white cloudiness or a blue or green tint. Another major sign to look for is a pupil that is constricted when the horse is in the barn or a darkened stall. A constricted pupil indicates that it is in spasm. Immediate treatment is needed to alleviate the spasm. The cornea is cloudy and a detailed examination can show contracted pupils and deposits of inflammatory debris on the front of the lens. The microfilariae of Onchocerca cervicalis have been found in the eye and may be a cause. Continued attacks of this disease increase damage to the eye, it may cause it to become smaller in size and can even cause blindness. The causes can be generally classified as bacterial, viral, parasitic, and traumatic.

Treatment

The correct treatment of the disease and early diagnosis can modify the course of the disease. After several days of treatment the cornea starts to clear, and the deposit in the anterior chamber becomes denser white, then gradually becomes absorbed and gradually disappears. Sometimes the pupil will open and the eye returns to normal, but occasionally it remains contracted and becomes stuck to the front of the lens, with and irregular ragged outline instead of the normal smooth oval shape. It is possible that the eye can return to normal and therefore the horse can continue to perform. However, it is likely that once the horse has had one attack there will be more, and therefore increasing the need for continuous treatment.

How Can I Make My Horse More Comfortable After A Hard day Competing ?

2010-09-08T01:31:00.000-07:00

After a hard days competing it is important to remember your horse will have been out of his daily routine and asked to work hard for a fair few hours, this includes travelling time. So how can you make sure your horse settles once he is home?

Firstly...even before you have set off for competition, muck out! There is nothing worse than coming home after a long day and finding a messy stable to do. Make bigger banks to stop him getting cast if he rolls or has a lie down. Make a haynet and tie it up in the stable. Make sure fresh, clean water is available at all times and add a little electrolytes if he is expected to exert himself a lot. Make a feed ready for when he is settled back in his stable.

When you return from competing, check your horse over for lumps, scrapes or bumps. Anything spotted at this stage can be dealt with sooner rather than later. Walk in hand once boots etc. have been removed to check he isn't lame. If possible (time/weather permitting) turn him out for a while. This will give him time to relax and walk off any aches from a hard days work. Being allowed to graze will make sure he doesn't bolt his food or over-eat and you can check he is behaving normal and is quite happy.

You can cold hose or add ice gel/packs to legs that could be sore in the morning. This will sooth and cool any stressed areas and the horse will appreciate a bit of attention and T.L.C.

When he is in the stable and settled give him a feed and let him wind down with a bit of peace and quiet. If you can check him (or get someone to check) later on.

In the morning allow him to go out and stretch his legs and check again that all is OK and nothing has been missed.

Happy competing!

How Can I Diagnose Lameness in My Horse?

2010-09-01T03:00:00.000-07:00

Lameness of the horse is a fear of all horse owners because it is something that can be caused by any number of issues, or even be secondary to another condition. So it is very difficult to get a diagnosis. Lameness is pain the horse feels that causes an abnormality in the way it moves to compensate for the discomfort.

• Reviewing medical history is important. If the horse has a previous history of becoming lame it is possible that history could affect the horse at present. The vet will enquire about exercise regimes, work requirements or any other pertinent requirements.

• The horse's conformation, balance and weight will be assessed and look for any signs of stress or injury.

• The horse will be assessed on its movement. The vet will look at the horse's walk and trot and in some cases it will be looked at on the lunge. The horse will be observed from the front, back and side views and any deviation in the gait will be noted.

• A hands-on-exam may be necessary. The vet will palpate the horse, checking muscles, joints, bones and tendons for any significant signs of heat, swelling or any other abnormalities. The pulse speed and strength, in particular, that of the lover limbs can indicate an issue and provide the vet with useful information on infection and inflammation. The main points to check are, forearm, knee, cannon, hoof, fetlock, pastern and coronet.

• Hoof and joint tests will be performed and normally includes a careful inspection on hoof conformation and weight bearing surface.

• Flexion tests help to assess the joint capsules and associated tendons and ligaments and bone ends. The vet performs this by flexing the horse's limb and then asking the horse to be trotted away to see and signs of increased lameness.

• Lunging the horse is a good way to spot lameness. The vet will observe the horse being circled on hard ground. This generally puts more pressure on the inside leg and often makes a more subtle lameness more obvious.

• Nerve blocking using a local anaesthetic will help to isolate the area of lameness by numbing the area of lameness and therefore improving the horse's movement. Nerve blocking numbs the joint or larger area of the leg, so if the horse goes sound after the injection, the vet can assume that the source of pain is in that joint.

• Imaging tests can be used once nerve blocking has given a more localised area for the cause of lameness. The range of imaging techniques aid the identity of the cause of pain. These include ultrasounds, x-rays, MRI scanning and scintigraphy.

Determining which leg is lame can be difficult to spot for an inexperienced eye. In general a horse will drop its weight onto the unaffected leg and its head will appear to nod onto this leg.

Forelimb lameness will be examined with the horse coming toward the vet. The horse will come down harder on its unaffected leg.

Hindlimb lameness will be examined with the horse going away from the vet, from behind in other words. It is more difficult to diagnose hindlimb lameness. For example a left hindlimb lameness will see a greater vertical motion at the hip and appear to carry the left leg higher than the right.

If the lameness is not directly associated with the limb, then there could be another reason making the horse seem unsound. This could be something like bridle-lameness or back pain.

Conformation

2010-08-24T05:34:00.000-07:00

What is conformation?

Conformation is how the horse is put together. It depends on breed to how correct the conformation is, but all horses should aim to be bred with good conformation. There are a number of conformational faults that are universal through all equines. It all relates to length and width of bone, joint angles and overall balance of the horse.

Why is it so important?

Conformation is linked with the horses mechanics (how it moves). If there is a problem with conformation it is likely that the movement at some point can be affected and in the long term it could hinder more advanced movements or overall performance. Poor conformation can put unnecessary stress on tendons, ligaments and joints, which will cost the horse owner in the long run.

So what is ideal conformation?

Ideal conformation will maintain the longevity of the horse. There should be no issues with joints or bone weakness and movement should be easy and free moving without hindrance or pain.

This can also depend on discipline. What is ideal for a showjumper may not be ideal for a dressage horse. Different breeds have different conformation, so for this reason that is why some breeds are better than others at certain disciplines.

Breed societies have an ideal conformation that they will publish and will encourage the breeding of ideal conformation to keep the “stamp” of the breed.

What are conformational defects?

Conformational defects are undesirable traits in the skeleton/musculature of the horse. Some issues can be sorted when the horse is a very young foal. If they are left they can become problematic.

Club Foot

This is when the horse has a hoof angle of 60 degrees or more. It is a congenital defect or acquired. This usually occurs on the forelegs. In congenital cases it is due to contraction of the deep flexor tendon. An acquired club foot is due to injury or a condition that causes pain and this results in disuse of the limb. The leg then develops a flexural deformity and the hoof changes shape. Treatment for this condition requires finding out the cause and returning the hoof to its normal angle through remedial shoeing.

Toed in (pigeon toed)

This can be seen when the horse stands square and is observed from the front. Either one or both hooves turn in. It is a congenital defect that can be corrected through remedial shoeing, but it must be detected and treatment started at a young age whilst the joint is still forming. This defect is normally caused by angular limb deformities and these would require surgery to correct. Toed in horses suffer from excessive strain on the lateral (outside) aspect of the hoof and fetlock. The horse will dish when it moves (seen in walk and trot).

Toed out (splayed feet)

This is the opposite of pigeon toed. It normally occurs due to problems with the shoulder/hip or lower leg. It is normal for the hind legs to turn out slightly due to the normal position of the horse's stifle. In these horses interfering of the hoof and fetlock occurs and this causes injuries.

Carpus Valgus (Knocked knees)

This is more commonly seen in foals and it is easily corrected. This occurs when one or more carpi deviate outwards when the horse is observed from the front. If it is left uncorrected then it will put a lot of stress on ligaments abd the small bones of the carpus especially on the inner surface.

Carpus Varus (Bow legged)
This is the opposite of Carpus Valgus and is when one or both carpi deviate outwards and this results in stresses on the outer surface of the small bones.

Base narrow (stands close)
Horse has an over-developed chest (pectoral muscles) the base of the hoof is close in comparison to the top of the limb.

Base wide (stands wide)
Horses that stand wide at the base often have problems with ringbone and are abnormally loaded on the joints of the lower leg particularly medially (inside of the joints).

Sickle Hocks
The angle of the hock is too small so the cannon bone sits far underneath the horse. There will be excessive stress on the plantar ligament which can be stressed and overloaded.

Sway backed
Sway backed horses have problems as it is the ligaments holding the spine in place slacken. There is no cure or solution to this conformation issue. It is a common site in older horses especially broodmares. It can be difficult to get a saddle to fit horses with sway back.

Parrotmouth
This is an inherited disorder that greatly inhibits the bite of the horse. It is very difficult to graze and chew and requires a lot of dental work as the teeth wont wear naturally. This is seen in a lot of racehorses as they are bred for speed not dental conformation. This is an inherited disorder.

How can we stop poor conformation in horses?

The main issue is genetics. Indiscriminate breeding is a major problem. Often it is owners breeding from animals “because it wont do anything else”. Thoroughbred breeders breed horses for speed, so if a mare has a parrotmouth, but is a consistent winner, she will be put in foal and the likelyhood is that the conformation defect will be passed on.
A performance horse with poor conformation can be inhibited. A dressage horse that has a sway back may find it difficult to come round and work over the horse's back. A showjumper with sickle hocks wont make the heights and if they do they wont last as the tendons and ligaments wont withstand the strain.

Good conformation reduces the risk of injury, allows the horse to perform to the best of its ability and give the horse a better quality of life. This is why, when people talk about conformation and horses it is always top of the list when going to look at a potential purchase.

But my horse has conformational issues, does that make him a bad purchase?
No, definitely not. There are horses that have conformation that would normally be described as undesirable, but as long as they do the job and are happy, healthy horses there is not an issue. It may be problematic if you ever wanted to do showing classes because correct conformation is a must have, if you don't: it doesn't matter.

What is a stereotypie and why do they occur in some horses?

2010-08-10T03:37:00.000-07:00

Stereotypies are also known as 'vices'. This is a behaviour that is deemed unnatural for a horse as they are often a repeated behaviour that has no real function. It is believed that stereotypies are a variation of a natural behaviour in a deficient environment. This usually occurs if movement, feed and social interaction are restricted. The behavioural sequence consists of 2 phases:

1. Appetitive-- the horse feels motivated to perform an act e.g. Hunger

2. Consummatory-- the horse completes the act and therefore removes the initial motivation e.g. eating.

Once the horse fells a need in the appetitive phase and the consummatory phase cannot be achieved, the horse will return to the original action. Eventually the behaviour becomes habitual. Once this repetitive behaviour becomes established in the horse, it is difficult or near impossible to stop the behaviour.

E.g. The horse is hungry and no food is available, so the horse mouths at the door (cribbing) and the horse receives no feedback to the brain saying the consummatory phase has been satisfied. So, the horse repeats the behaviour of cribbing until food comes. However, the behaviour has been registered in the horse's brain. The behaviour it has depicted repetitively is the horse's 'coping mechanism' during a time when it was stressed or anxious.

Vices:
• Windsucking- horse grabs hold of something with its teeth and gulps air.
• Crib-biting- horse mouths, bites or chews e.g. the stable door.
• Weaving- horse sways side to side changing weight on the legs from on side to the other.
• Door banging- especially in anticipation of food.
• Box walking- the horse walks aimlessly round the stable circling or pawing the bed up.

Genetics
There is a belief that genetics make the horse more predisposed to developing a vice and it is the trigger of the environment that creates the vice behaviour to come about. There have been a few studies done that have shown that bloodlines have very similar vices within the bloodline, not only that they actually show a vice behaviour.

Management

Ideally a horse's environment should be in keeping with its natural behaviour and instinct.
• Diet/grazing- a high fibre diet with plenty of grazing is best. However, as domestic animals convenience of stables and also being able to reach horse's nutritional requirements in one easy feed, this is cut down significantly. This means that restricted grazing and restricted eating behaviour is more than likely to create an oral fixation stereotypie.

• Social- Limited social time for the horse will increase the likelihood of the horse developing a stereotypie. Horses are herd creatures that rely on social interaction as a way of life.

• Early findings indicate that the age of weaning and how weaning is done are paramount. 75% of potential stereotypes show symptoms within one month of weaning.

There are a number of ways of dealing with a horse that has a stereotypie, such as cribbing collar, weaving bars and even anti-psychotic drugs. But a horse should not be physically prevented from acting out the stereotypical behaviour because it is the horse's way of coping in it environment. The best way to deal with a horse that has a stereotypie is to make sure its management and environment give it access to all its needs. This means ample turnout, social and grazing time and less time alone in the stable. When the horse is in the stable, try using positive reinforcement to discourage the behaviour through addition of a lick or stable toy.

My horse has a heart murmur, what does this mean and should I keep riding him?

2010-08-02T03:56:00.000-07:00

The word murmur is used to describe an unusual sound detected in the horse's heart. They vary from the two beat “lub-dub” sound in a normal horse's heart, to a “whooshing” sound.

The cardiovascular system of the horse is designed to transport oxygen to muscle tissue from the lungs to be utilised by cell tissue in a process called respiration. This is what produced the “energy” that is used for muscular contraction. The heart is the “pump” to this system and any abnormalities here should be addressed depending on severity of the problem.

The severity of a heart murmur can vary, from being detectable, but never impeding the horse in any way, to causing sever adverse problems with breathing, lacking energy, and poor performance. This is because the horse is not getting enough oxygen to vital areas due to poor blood flow.

Reasons for a heart murmur are:
• Anaemia
• Hypoproteinaemia (lack of blood protein)
• Stenosis of the heart valves- when the heart valves do not open wide enough to let blood through, causing the heart to work harder to get enough blood through.
• Leaky valves-causing back flow of blood
• Septal defects (“hole in the heart”)

Many horses undergo a pre-purchase examination and many heart murmurs go undetected by stethoscope examinations and may continue to go unnoticed for the rest of the horse's life. Some murmurs, however can cause a significant depression in the horse's performance, especially at high intensity work. This is when an ultrasound is done by the Vet, usually a colour Doppler ultrasound, which will show abnormal blood flow and can be used to assess the patency of the horse's heart. In this instance it takes a specialist eye to detect where the problem lies.

So, If you are worried about the type of heart murmur,the best advice would be to get your vet to do an ultrasound investigation to allow you to get a better understanding of what is going on. Recent studies have claimed that as much as 60% of horses have heart murmurs, they just go undetected. So if it is not very severe there is no reason why you should not be enjoying your horse and riding him!

What is riding etiquette?

2010-07-26T01:37:00.001-07:00

Riding etiquette is what is considered appropriate behaviour when riding a horse. This could be out in company, in a public place or in a warm-up arena for competition. There have been written rules, considered BHS standard that are standard in many warm-up arenas, but there are also unwritten rules; more common sense that are also encouraged. The idea behind having riding etiquette is so horses and riders remain safe and have an positive riding experience.

In the warm up arena

• Riders should pass each other left side to left side.

• Riders working on a circle remain on the inside of the track.

• When working on the same rein (same direction) priority of the track is given to the faster paces, riders in walk should take the inside track.

• Lateral work (leg yield, shoulder-in etc.) are given priority.

• A safe distance should be kept from the horse in front to prevent any accidents.

• Whips should be placed across the top of the leg and not hinder fellow riders.

• Announce intentions, letting other riders know what a rider intends to do.

• Do not stop or perform downward transitions on the track, move to the inside or middle out of the way.

• Stallion riders must let themselves be known, especially when mares share the arena.

This will make the warm up more civilised and a nicer experience for everyone

When riding out

• Stay at the pace of the least confident/experienced rider. This will make sure no body is doing anything they are uncomfortable with, reducing chance of accidents.

• State intentions, if anyone wants to trot or canter as a group. This will allow people who want to join in to keep up and prepare, but also for those who do not want to join in to break away from the group safely.

• The most sensible horse should open and close gates, unless someone is happy to dismount/ re-mount.

• Cantering should be done safely, away from public and on suitable ground. Even on bridleways be aware of walkers and cyclists.

• Do not just ride “anywhere” stick to roads and tracks where permission has been granted. Farmers wont appreciate hoof prints going across their crops!

• Be aware of surroundings, prepare and know the route. Letting some one know the route and time of arriving back will make sure someone knows that they have come back in one piece.

• When on the roads, ride single file or two abreast where it is considered safe to do so.

• It is not a good idea for nervous, young or spooky horses to hack alone in traffic. This is dangerous and considered an unnecessary risk.

• Wear fluorescent clothing; this is for both horse and rider. Visibility can make a massive difference in the time it takes to see a horse rider coming down the road.

• Keeping the horse under control is vital!!

Being polite to other riders, traffic and other members of the public makes meeting horses on the road a pleasant experience and encourages good manners for future meetings.

What Vaccines Does My Horse Need?

2010-07-21T01:12:00.000-07:00

Can you please tell me which vaccinations should be given to a horse? Also, can you tell me how often they are need?

Vaccines are used to create an immunity by mimicking infection from a disease. This is usually a dead or dying virus or bacteria that will stimulate the body's immune response without allowing the full strength of the disease to take hold. The body will respond in the form of antibodies. The vaccine works because at a cellular level it creates a 'memory' of how to fight the disease, therefore it remembers how to protect it against any future infection.

The most common vaccines for horses are:

Equine Influenza (flu)
Like all influenza viruses, this is a highly contagious disease. The effects can have a knock on effect as competing and training is put on hold until the horse recovers. It is very rarely fatal, but it can be a sever illness for young, sick or elderly horses when their immunity is compromised or not fully established.

After the first injection, there is a second that is given around 4 weeks after; this is the initial course and a booster injection is given at 6 months. The injection is then given annually. This can depend, however on the manufacturer guidelines as well as governing bodies. The FEI has made the decision that 6 month boosters is compulsory, regardless of vaccine used and many racing yards do the same.

Tetanus

The course starts with 2 injections, 4 weeks apart. Then every 18 to 24 months a booster is given. Tetanus is a widespread and and difficult to treat, even potentially fatal and every horse should receive this protection. The disease can easily enter the body through a cut or puncture wound.

Equine herpes virus 1 and 4 (EHV-1, EHV-4)

There is no FEI or governing body guidelines for protecting horses against these highly contagious infections. The initial course is with 2 injections at 4 to 6 weeks apart with a booster annually (but can be more frequent)

EHV-1 and EHV-2 can cause respiratory disease, EHV-1 can also cause abortion. Broodmares receive these injections at five, seven and nine months of pregnancy to prevent abortion.

Rotavirus

This is a vaccine that protects young foals against diarrhoea and ulcers. This is through passive immunity as it is the mares that are injected with the vaccine at 8, 9 and 10 months of pregnancy.

The more common vaccinations require the same amount of time between initial and booster injections making it easier for horse owners to keep track of when their horses are due. Any vaccinations should be recorded in the horse's passport. If injections are late then it is advisable that the course is started again. This makes sure that the horse is completely covered as well as complying with rules that could prevent horses being allowed to compete.

Beating Your Fear - Getting Back onto your Horse

2010-06-02T03:53:00.000-07:00

I haven't ridden since I was a child, I recently bought a horse and I'm scared to ride him. My husband helps up by regularly riding him, but I'm getting to the stage where I'm actually scared of my horse. I love him to pieces, so how can I get over this irrational fear?

Firstly, I'd take a few lessons at a sympathetic riding school that understand the troubles you are having. This will also get you used to being around horses in general and hopefully back into the habit of riding. Set yourself a goal and try everything to achieve getting back onto your horse.

Before you think about physically getting back on a horse, visualize it by creating a mental image and go through the motions in your mind. Imagine your there, feeling confident and comfortable whilst enjoying grooming and touching your horse. Add in all the little things into the vision, the sound of the brush on his fur the smell of your horse. Continue you re-live this vision as much as possible until it becomes a positive and comfortable situation, also remember to be in a relaxed state when you carry out this mental image.

The next stage is to break down the whole activity down into a series of small steps. Start with touching him lightly on the shoulder. Soon you will be reliving the image you have created. Once you have cracked grooming then you can move on to visualizing tacking up, getting on and walking a few steps. Remember if you start to struggle go back to visualizing again.

When an undesirable image comes into your head, visualize putting a picture frame around that image an shrinking it down. Bring back a huge colourful image of the desired picture you want to achieve. You'll be amazed how confident you can become using this method. So good luck getting back on your horse and thanks very much for the question.

What Should I Look For In a New Trainer?

2010-05-17T03:42:00.000-07:00

I'm thinking of sending my horse away to a trainer. What should i be looking for in a trainer?

If you’re sending your horse away to be backed, its essential you find a trainer that you can trust and someone that will do a good job with your horse. Keep in mind that anyone can set themselves up as a horse trainer and even if they don’t have any relevant experience they can advertise their services. There has been many reports of novice training taking your horse, money and then leaving people with a horse with more problems than they started with. Remember a good trainer's reputation usually precedes him but so does a bad trainers. Do some research on the trainer, ask friends, search the internet, ask on horse related forums and ask if you can speak to the trainer’s previous customers. Good trainers usually won’t oversell themselves because they don't have to. Tell the trainer about your horse their age, type, previous training and if you like what you hear then i suggest you visit the yard. Always air on the side of caution and remember that it’s your horse and your money so don’t feel pressured into your decision, if it doesn’t feel right then it probably isn't for you.

Shorter Rein Problems

2010-05-12T09:29:00.000-07:00

Question
My riding instructor has highlighted that I continue to ride with one rein shorter than the other one. Even if I start the school with them the same length they gradually change without me noticing. Whats happening?

Answer:
Firstly look at the position of your shoulders and upper body. It may be thatyou hitch one shoulder forward or up when your riding, and this would cause you to have one hand further forward and therefore one rein shorter.

Any human being can have 'torques' (twists) in their body if they tend to do one thing in the same direction. For example if you sweep the yard withyour broom going the same direction.

Below are some exercises that can help to balance out these torques.

*with someone holding your horse, fold your arms in front of you then lift your lower arms to shoulder level. Twist your upper body gently to the left and then to the right to get the feeling of rotating in your rib cage when you want to make a turn. This will help you to keep even reins and contact through the corners.

* Use a piece of tape or a coloured headband to mark an ideal length on the rein. As you feel the rein slipping simply re-adjust back to the marker.

*Relax one arm at you side and brace you oposite shoulder and continue to roll the shoulder in a anit clockwise motion. Repeat 5 rotations on each shoulder. The more you do this exercise the more it will strengten and balance the shoulders.